3D Printer Stuff > 3D Printer Upgrades

GEEETech i3

The GEEETech Prusa i3

My GEEETech Prusa i3

Here is my current setup.

Click image for a larger picture!

July 22, 2015: I got the GEEETech Prusa i3a a several months ago as a DIY kit. If you read my intro to my 3d printer, you would know that it is an inexpensive kit. To keep it that way, they comprimised on some of the parts, like the threaded rods that drive the Z axis. Lead screws are more accurate and a lot smoother in action. I ordered my lead screws/nuts from BandGood.com. This is what I ordered: 3D Printer T8 300mm Z Axis Lead Screw 8mm Screw Pitch. Note that the nuts are not threaded so, you may need longer screws and nuts to mount them. Also allow plenty of time for your order. I ordered from thier "US Warehouse" specifically to avoid a lot of issues. However, when I got my pair, one was missing a nut, which made the total order worthless... After aguing back and forth for a week, I got refunded the total amount for one lead screw and nut. It would have been better customer service to just replace it. Long story short, I finally have one and half sets...

Geeetech also use 3d printed parts for the Z axis mounts and the X carriage mounts. The printed parts are not much of a suprise, but the quality was a little lacking on the Z axis mounts where the extruder mounts. Fortunately, Geeetech provided the STL files for all of the 3d printed parts. You can download them all here, plus a few add ons for your pinter. One of the first things I did, once I got everything working well, was print out a set. I found another person on GooglePlus who had a set parts for sale, so I purchased his extruder assembly and he thew in the printed parts too. Not a bad deal. 

To replace the threaded rods, you pretty much have to disassemble the printer. Since I was replacing the the extruder mounts too, it was going to be a mojor undertaking. In all actuality, the worse part of it was putting the belt back on to the Z mount. It really sucked. It took me about an hour just to do that part. I really think they could have designed it a bit better. I could have had everything done in an hour, if I didn't have to do those darn belts... 

Everything else went easy. After I was done, I had to do a calibration on the Z axis. AND there is a BIG diffence in the number of steps per mm. I went from 2560 to 397. The first move that I tried with my Z axis, I commanded 10mm up and it went 700... I used the formula (No. of mm commanded)X(E steps) divided by the actual mm traveled. It takes some fine tuning. I ran it 4 times before I got it dead on.

Some things to look for, double check your belt tension after you get done. Also, after any maintence, you should check your bed level or Z offset, for those of us with auto level set ups. My Z offset changed by 4 mm... quite a bit. But now I have a new hot end, Z mount assembly and lead screws.

If you have any questions about this project, email me.

Left Lead screw

This is the left lead screw. You can also see the solid aluminum coupler that Bob Marinoff made for me.

Click image for a larger picture!

Right Lead Screw

This is the right lead screw.

Click image for a larger picture!

New extruder mount

Here is a picture of the new extruder and mount.

Click image for a larger picture!

Test Piece

This is a close up of a test piece I made. It is a lot better than previous prints; however, I had the X axis belt was loose.

Click image for a larger picture!


Ask a Question or Leave a Comment